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Laksa

Laksa is a bowlful of noodles in a unique soupbase which blends the Chinese and Malay styles of cooking. There are 2 distinct types of laksas namely, the tamarind-based assam laksa and the coconut-based laksa lemak, although there are many variations of these types.

Origins
Laksa in Indonesian means sepuluh ribu or "10 thousand" a reference to the many strands of the fine white vermicelli noodles in the dish. The name is believed to be of Sanskrit origin, with a particular link to Indonesia and possible roots in the ancient Majapahit era. However, others believe it is of Chinese origin, the dish having been brought in by immigrants and adapted to local tastebuds. The ingredients in variant Laksas point to obvious Peranakan influences although the use of mint leaves and the sour flavour of also suggest Thai influences.

Ingredients
The key ingredient giving Laksa its unique flavour and aroma is the Laksa leaf, locally known as the daun kesom (Polygonum Hydropiper) or the pepper plant or water pepper. Also mandatory is the spicy paste made up of lemon grass and prawn paste, locally known as belachan. An authentic Laksa is made of thin, white vermicelli or rice noodles and a fish-based soup stock. Seafood like fish and prawns plus generous helpings of vegetables are added.

Variations
Essentially there are two types of Laksas. Firstly Laksa Lemak, where lemak is Malay for the rich flavour derived from santan or "coconut milk", and secondly, the sweet-and-sour, spicy Assam Laksa which unlike the cloudy Laksa Lemak, has a clear and thinner soup-base. Its sour taste is derived from the juice of squeezed tamarind, locally known as assam. It is a Peranakan variation of Laksa and thus has ingredients such as hei ko or "black prawn paste" and kunyit or "tumeric".

A common hybrid is the curry mee or "curry noodles" often mistakenly labelled a Laksa dish. It has a thick chicken curry soup-base similar to Laksa but the yellow noodles give it away as authentic Laksas are only made with white vermicelli noodles. Other variations of this hybrid include the seafood version of King Prawn Laksa and Crab Laksa and for vegetarians, there is the Laksa Yong Tao Foo. Various Malaysian states have laid claim to their own version of the Laksa with the Johore Laksa and the Sarawak Laksa.

Singapore Laksa
This Peranakan version is rich with seafood ingredients like cockles, prawns and fish cake, swimming in a chicken or ikan bilis stock enriched with coconut milk. It is also flavoured with loads of dried shrimp. Outlets that hawk this version include Roxy Laksa, East Coast Lagoon Hawker Centre; Brasserie Tatler, Marina Mandarin.

Penang Laksa
This is the most popular Assam Laksa version with Penang laying claim to its rich flavours derived from the pungent hae ko or shrimp paste mixed with tamarind juice. The fish stock is often made of the local catch ikan kembong, and the taste is enhanced with slices of lemongrass, tumeric, ginger flower and slices of blanched shallots. Mint leaves, pineapple bits, thin strips of cucumber garnish the dish, trademark of the richness found in any Peranakan platter.

KL Curry Mee
Originating from Kuala Lumpur, this Laksa is a cross between the Singapore Laksa and a spicy variation of the Mee Rebus. The noodles are yellow and the chicken curry soup is sometimes livened up with cockles and a dash of sweet black sauce.

Sarawak Sambal Laksa
The grey soup is surprisingly tasty although less spicy. This version is said to have been concocted by the Chinese in Sarawak. Thin beehoon is used cooked in prawn or chicken stock and garnished with Laksa leaves, lemon grass, coriander, candlenut, shallots, prawns, and shredded fried egg. Outlets claiming to sell the dish include Heng's Laksa, TKM Eating House, 12 Pahang Street.

Johor Laksa
A coconut-based Laksa made tasty with salted fish and basil and served with thick, white beehoon, the dish is popular with Malays and is served most especially during the fasting month. Sometimes locals use spaghetti. Dried, fried coconut and sambal belachan add the uniquely Malay flavour aside from garnishing like basil, lemongrass, finely sliced cucumber and turnip.

Perak Curry Mee
Named lui fan and credited to Malaysian Chinese, this dish is actually niang dou fu or yong tau foo served with curry sauce.



Author
Suchitthra Vasu



References
Hutton, W. (1989). Singapore food (pp. 96-97). Singapore: Times Books International.
(Call no.: 641.595957 HUT)

Tan, C. (1983). Penang Nonya cooking (p. 106). Petaling Jaya: Eastern University Press.
(Call no.: 641.59595 TAN)

How to tell one laksa from another (1999, February 13). The Straits Times, Life!, p. 10.

Making a mean Thai laksa (1998, October 3). The New Straits Times, p. 7.

Thats not laksa you are eating thats Penang laksa (1999 January 29). The Straits Times. Life!, p. 7

The answer is in the noodles (1999, February 5). The Straits Times, Life!, p. 10.

Where's laksa In New York? (1999, January 19). The Straits Times, Life!, p. 4.

Hawker: Laksa foodz. (n.d.). Retrieved August 13, 2002, from eat.hypermart.net/sg_hawker/laksa.htm

Penang Insights. (n.d.). Nonya cuisine: Laksa. Retrieved August 13, 2002, from penang.insights.com.my/penang/html/cui_nya.htm


Further Readings
Tan, C. (1983). Penang nonya cooking (p. 106). Petaling Jaya: Eastern University Press. 
(Call no.: RCLOS 641.59595 TAN )

Janggut's laksa legacy (1999, November 7). The Sunday Plus, p. 3.

Storm in a hot laksa bowl! (1999, November 7). The Sunday Plus, pp. 1-2. 

Subject
Ethnic Communities>>Food
Cookery--Singapore
Cookery, Chinese
Cookery>>International and regional cooking>>Chinese
Cookery>>Food
Cookery>>International and regional cooking>>Malay

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